From Alsace to Lyon, the gastronomic centre of France and part two of our holiday. Lyon is France’s second city but it certainly isn’t second rate. We were chiefly there for a bit of culture and to visit the cities famous bouchons.
These eating places were established in the 17th and 18th century to serve the silk workers of the city. They are gutsy, relatively inexpensive restaurants, if you were to imagine what a typical French bistro looks like, then it’s a bouchon which is likely to jump into your mind.
You get good honest food and good honest wine. Morgon from Beaujolais is widely served in the unique Lyonais pot. It’s a very heavy bottomed bottle which holds just under half a litre so perfect for a lunch for two. The Morgan was young, fruity and delicious, it is rapidly turning into my fav summer red.
This is a typical menu. Great value but heavy on the offal!
MIDI Menu classique 19,50€
Une entrée composée de quatre plats
Charcuterie lyonnaise
- Caviar de la Croix Rousse
- Salade lyonnaise
- Terrine de sanglier
- Un plat chaud
Une spécialité lyonnaise
au choix à choisir sur place
- Civet de joue de porc
- Gâteau de foie de volaille
- Boudin noir, pommes en l’air
- Andouillette sauce moutarde
- Quenelle sauce Nantua et ses écrevisses
- Tête de veau sauce ravigote
- Tablier de sapeur
- Gras double
- Saucisson au vin
- Poulet au vinaigre
- Tripes mode
- Gâteau de foie de volaille
Un fromage ou dessert “MAISON”
- Cervelle des canuts
- Fromage blanc
- Tarte à la praline
- Moelleux au chocolat
- Baba au Rhum
- Salade de fruits frais
- Poire au vin
- Dessert maison
It was at the Café de Federations , one of the most famous of all the bouchons, that I had a quite bizarre dessert. I chose the Baba au Rhum which I have not eaten for 25 years plus. I remember it to be like a sticky sweet doughnut with lots of squirty cream. This one was different, the squirty cream was still there but that’s where the similarities ended
I asked the waitress what was in the bottle expecting her to say sugar syrup and a bit of rum and was astonished when she replied rum just rum. Very generous and a nice touch.